The Return! (India, post pandemic...)

 It makes sense to start my blog series about Goa with the beach, because this IS the main attraction of this town and state...at least, for most tourists. Specifically, I am in SOUTH Goa, as opposed to North Goa, because the southern part is the more rural, peaceful, less touristic area. When I came to Goa 20 years ago, I went to the northern part, precisely because that was where tourists went to find comfortable accomodations and Indians used to catering to them. However, most tragically, during the past 2 decades, the north has become overcrowded, polluted, congested, built up with discos, high-rise hotels and casinos. I know this not because I went there, but from what many of my Indian friends have told me. So... I followed their advice, came to S. Goa--specifically, the small town of Majorda-- and I haven't been disappointed! Apart from the usual travails--so typical of India--I have been quite content here and am going on my second week now, in my second Airbnb accomodation

Pune… city of disenchantment. A shock on my system:  WHAT a contrast to the last time I was here, at the start of the pandemic, in 2020! I NEVER thought I would say this, but… I actually MISS those days here in India!! Why? Because there was practically NO traffic back then. The skies were SO blue and lovely, with big, puffy clouds passing through them. The birds were riotous in their gaiety, and I could wander the verdant streets of Koregaon Park peacefully, enjoying the splendor of nature, engaged in a moving meditation of sorts. Most importantly to me, the air was SO clean! But now… post-pandemic…things are back to “normal”. And…sad to say, folks, “normal” is NOT good. It means massive amounts of traffic and the typical, obnoxious blaring horns. It means literally running for my life across the main road near where I am staying, because there are almost NO controlled intersections between major street crossings. It means there is chaos on these roads–no order at all–with so many

 Polluted, reeking of drying fish (on Madh Island, where I have been staying)...Mumbai is NOT someplace where I can imagine settling, even though I love the wonderful, joyful Ananda community here. I have struggled to breathe, struggled to be impervious to the trash, the emaciated street dogs, the horrific traffic in the main part of the city. It cannot be done. It was a worthwhile visit, to be sure... and photographing all the fascinating sights did make it more bearable.  Isn't it always ironic when bad air makes for beautiful sunrises and sunsets?!? This one was captured out of the window where I stayed in the huge highrise as friend Chitra's guest (she has a 2BHK flat). Horrific, smelly, disgusting... what an eyesore, and it is EVERYWHERE!!!  Washing, bathing... this bay has to be horrifically polluted, attesting the hardiness and adaptability of the Indians who maintain their lives here.  On a major highway.... you can see just how horrific the air pollution here is...  Vi

 Remember how I mentioned in the previous blog about unsuspecting beach goers being "grabbed" by tatoo "artists"?! Well...  This super scammer-- clearly polished, most intrepid-- really did literally grab me as I was ambling down the beach. Of course, if she was out to do a REAL tatoo on my arm, I would have reacted quite violently. But when I saw she only had stamps and pads of henna, I cautiously relented. I have always liked the elegant, decorative patterns of henna on women's hands in India. As I understand it, etching henna on the hands is traditional at bridal parties before a woman is married off. I am envious of those gorgeous designs! So... I waited to see what this woman would do, and this was it: Pretty cool, eh?! Not so much so when she began "adding up" the charges! You see, her English was scant, and when I asked her "how much" as she began forcefully stamping my fingers, hands and arms with lightening speed, she replied, "

In the "chic" part of Mumbai, the new Ananda cafe is an oasis... a respite from the noise and craziness of the second largest city in India!  (It's metropolitan area has a population of over 15 million.)   On my second day, I accompanied my good friend Aryavan to the Ananda Cafe, located in the upscale part of Mumbai. It is also, strategically, very close to one of the most popular beaches in town (the name of which I have since forgotten). This relatively new Ananda creation was positively astral! It was a true oasis away from the noise, chaos and craziness of the city streets outside of its doors. It offers a largely western fare, along with delicate desserts. I had a cup of tea and a lovely chocolate tart to go with it.  In keeping with the neighborhood, the style is very chic and westernized:  By contrast, the scenes on the nearby beach were thoroughly Indian, as well as fascinating and fun!  There was a vast assortment of makeshift vendors; myriad, aromatic cafes whi