Glorious and Gorgeous Goa! (For three and a half weeks)... Part 1: The Beach

It makes sense to start my blog series about Goa with the beach, because this IS the main attraction of this town and state...at least, for most tourists. Specifically, I am in SOUTH Goa, as opposed to North Goa, because the southern part is the more rural, peaceful, less touristic area. When I came to Goa 20 years ago, I went to the northern part, precisely because that was where tourists went to find comfortable accomodations and Indians used to catering to them. However, most tragically, during the past 2 decades, the north has become overcrowded, polluted, congested, built up with discos, high-rise hotels and casinos. I know this not because I went there, but from what many of my Indian friends have told me. So... I followed their advice, came to S. Goa--specifically, the small town of Majorda-- and I haven't been disappointed! Apart from the usual travails--so typical of India--I have been quite content here and am going on my second week now, in my second Airbnb accomodation.

The Majorda beach--the one I frequent-- is relatively clean. It is also not overrun with vendors pestering beach goers (although they ARE here, but not so many, and not so aggressive as I remember them being in the north). Finally, there are no wandering cows attempting to steal my fresh pineapple snacks! (That's a story for another day... !) It IS filled with funky little beachfront restaurants, referred to as "shacks", serving up delectable fare at good prices. One can find a great assortment of fish and seafood, along with traditional Indian dishes, and often even Italian items.

The tables, canopies, chairs and chaise lounges are often so close to the water that, when a high wave brings water up the beach, it laps at your feet as you eat. Also, there is a lot to entertain one during a meal: kids playing in the waves; street/beach dogs chasing each other and begging for scraps; and the odd, incongruous sound of Indians and tourists conversing in Russian.

"Russian!?!" you exclaim. "Why Russian?" Well, oddly enough, Goa apparently attracts hoards of Russian tourists. I imagine they are escaping the brutal Russian winters, and enjoy the relative cheapness of life in India, as does every other foreigner. But... why NOT other European travelers? Apparently, as with Americans, the Indians have a good, economic and friendly relationship with the Russian government, thus making it easy for them to get visas to come. Not so, evidently, with other European countries. I DID make one new friend here who is British, and she has introduced me to another Brit and one Scotsman, but they are unusual. She tells me that it is next to impossible to obtain the elusive visa in the UK, and those who succeed are both very persistent and very lucky.

So... I am the only American, far as I can tell, and am indeed grateful to be here, despite power outages/wifi problems, the noise of barking dogs and train whistles; early morning bicycle vendors honking their horns; roosters crowing before the light of dawn; loud motorcycles, etc. etc. There is also of course the ubiquitous piles of trash--worse in some places than others-- and the horrible, toxic smoke from many fires burning them, along with underbrush. But at least, overall, the air is cleaner, the general habitat is very lush, green, and full of birds, and I can breathe a sigh of relief. AND of relatively clean air!

So... I spend my days--when not teaching online--blogging, swimming, reading, lounging at the beach, exploring the various back country roads on my rented bicycle, eating good food, and chatting with Indians and tourists alike (but NOT the Russians, who never bother to learn English, expecting the Indians to learn RUSSIAN to speak to THEM! The audacity!)

Enjoy the stories and photos below:

As mentioned, beach dogs are as ubiquitous as street dogs are everywhere in India. I was delighted to chance upon three charming pups... you know me, I fell in love with the runt and scooped him right up. He was such a gentle little fellow, becoming very still in my arms, content just to snuggle for awhile. Oh, how I wish I could take this little guy on my travels with me! Alas, not possible, of course.

More babies on the beach: human and canine. These two toddlers--one Indian, one Russian--couldn't speak each other's languages, but in the ways of children, formed a friendship in play... as delightful to witness as was their fascination with this other, rambunctious youngster!

The main industry in the seaside town of South Goa is fishing, of course. It is so paradoxical that, in the age of internet and other advanced technology (electric scooters are plentiful here, for instance), the fishing industry remains fairly primitive. As you can see here, there is no easy mechanical means for hauling this heavy fishing boat up onto the beach, so it takes several strong men tugging with all their might to do the job. When they noticed me photographing them, they scowled at me...no doubt not appreciating their toil being my entertainment! Of course it didn't faze me in the least. I HAD to capture this amazing event!

Another surprising aspect of the primitive fishing biz: The way the men carted the baskets of fish up to the market places to sell their catch. As you may imagine, the fresh fish here is quite delicious, and quite reasonably priced.

Some of you may be thinking, "but I thought you were a vegetarian?!" True, generally speaking...but whether in Mexico or India, when I am in a locale where the fish is brought in daily, I just cannot resist. After all, beans and rice only go just so far!!!

Besides the iconic coconut palms, there is nothing especially scenic about the Goan coastline. The fishing boats are interesting; the beaches themselves, unspectacular. The water IS quite warm--truly tropical, of course-- and pleasant to swim in. The waves are gentle, too. I just have to be wary of a bit of an undertow.

The best way to get around Goa, and most popular way by far: bicycles and "scooties"! Especially when making an excursion to the beach!

Typical Russian male: big gut and speedos! Here, this gentleman is debating which of the succulent choices to have as his midday meal. The Indians--staff at this beach "shack"-- patiently await his decision. Why so many guys in attendance, you may wonder? These Eastern Europeans apparently bring in the "big bucks", eating and drinking lavishly. This is why most of the shacks here have Russian signs, Russian menus, etc. Well, money makes the world go 'round, doesn't it? No matter what country you happen to be in....

Sad story about this magnificent creature, a classic Indian Brahmin bull: it is a "fighting bull". Young men walk them along the beaches to exercise them, before putting them in a ring where they will be pitted against an equally robust adversary. Horrifyingly barbaric and cruel, it is illegal in India. However, as with the lawlessness of traffic, there is never a police person to be seen anywhere. Maybe in terms of these fighting animals, the authorities are paid "baksheesh" to look the other way? Who knows. The idea of the abuse of such a majestic animal depresses me greatly.