Pune: City of Disenchantment!

Pune… city of disenchantment. A shock on my system:  WHAT a contrast to the last time I was here, at the start of the pandemic, in 2020! I NEVER thought I would say this, but… I actually MISS those days here in India!! Why? Because there was practically NO traffic back then. The skies were SO blue and lovely, with big, puffy clouds passing through them. The birds were riotous in their gaiety, and I could wander the verdant streets of Koregaon Park peacefully, enjoying the splendor of nature, engaged in a moving meditation of sorts. Most importantly to me, the air was SO clean!

But now… post-pandemic…things are back to “normal”. And…sad to say, folks, “normal” is NOT good. It means massive amounts of traffic and the typical, obnoxious blaring horns. It means literally running for my life across the main road near where I am staying, because there are almost NO controlled intersections between major street crossings. It means there is chaos on these roads–no order at all–with so many nerve-shattering, near-misses (screeching brakes and skids!) The worst of it?  Motorcycles drive on the sidewalks–yes, kid you not–and I am having to jump out of the way to avoid being run over!  There is ZERO police presence to keep these horrible infractions from happening. 

Tragically, with so much traffic and industry back in full force, the air pollution is now SO terrible that my lungs and eyes burn, and I cannot take a deep breath. Additionally, the major river running through Pune is filled with garbage–the water is totally brown in color–and it literally smells like a sewer. It probably IS sewer water!  The horrible stench wafts over to the pleasant little park in the “society” (apartment complex) where I used to love to stroll when I stayed here before. Not anymore! After one circuit through it, I have never returned. 

And the garbage in general... OMG, the garbage. It is EVERYWHERE!!! Ironically, Pune is touted to be a “green” city, supposedly conscious of being environmentally-friendly…or at least striving to be. They have been in the process of building an above-ground metro for years… but, typical of most infrastructure in India, progress is abominably slow. Thus… the traffic remains a nightmare. I ponder–daily–what, exactly, IS “green” about this city?? In its present condition, I see nothing at all… that is, except for the brave, hardy trees and other foliage that somehow withstand the horrible conditions humans have created here.   

In conclusion, apart from happy moments of visiting with old friends, meeting new ones in my guest house, and eating some great food (some nice dishes the housekeeper whipped up for me; delicious sourdough bread from my favorite Zen Cafe; some other, finer delicacies from the upscale “Nature’s Basket” store), each day feels like an endurance contest. I can't wait to high-tail it outa here and make my way to cleaner, more peaceful, locales! 

Since I have been here two weeks, I have at least managed to capture some interesting shots of a few photo-worthy experiences. 

But before presenting these photos, I must offer you a bit of an explanation about the one place that truly put Pune on the map, so to speak: the Osho Ashram.

 Established in the 70's, both the ashram and the adjacent park are known for their beauty and splendor... especially the lavish ashram gardens, where peacocks stroll among the meditating humans. Both were closed in 2020, when I was l here during the pandemic. This time, though, the small, public park was open at last--see the photos below.  While pretty, the park didn't quite live up to my long-awaited visit. It was not nearly as impressive as I would have expected. (Apparently, the actual ashram grounds are much nicer.) The park has some short but decent walking trails through a mini forest,  as you see in the photos. 

I did NOT enter the ashram itself because I was unwilling to pay the 2000 rupees (or about $24) entry fee.  This amount is truly a FORTUNE by Indian--or ANY standard-- simply for a day pass, as far as I was concerned. Worse, this exorbitant fee did not EVEN include meals! It ALSO didn't include the requisite maroon kirta (a long, Indian shirt), which added on another 1200 rupees!  SO...it appears the scoundrel "Osho", AKA "Rajneesh"--continues to rake it in, postmortem! Truly incredible. 

Caught these rays at the perfect time in the early morn. It was certainly peaceful in the park.
At least THIS bit of Osho property was free to visit!  

Beautiful little lotus pond in the park 

On to other interesting bits in my wanderings... 

At the bottom... YEP! Truer words were never spoke!!!!

I LOVE LOVE LOVE the Indian signs!!! 

Badly weather-worn, so let me translate for you: "Bachelors, students and spinsters ar not allowed"... MY GOODNESS! SOO prejudicial! What does this society--where I have been staying in a guest house-- have against bachelors, spinsters and students??? I welcome any and all contemplations from you on this very serious matter!!! 

Horrifying, ubiquitous: garbage just dumped in heaps by the side of roads, even in the more upscale neighborhoods, such as this one is! Completely appalling, unfathomable, disgusting... 

Is it any wonder that the inhabitants of this city and country are plagued with bad lung issues?!?! Ummm...how about cleaning up the air, folks, so it is not necessary to advertise remedies for asthma, COPD, emphysema...God only knows, whatever other lung ailments... 

Misspellings abound, as always, on advertisements and elsewhere throughout India...always a source of great amusement for me. It is unlivable to be without this broadband internet, folks!!!

Two cute kids--my neighbors in the society of my guest house-- who befriended me and practiced English with my help! 

One redeeming feature of Pune: the beautiful banyon trees in Koregaon Park

Though they spew a terrible, diesel exhaust, they ALMOST make up for it by being so colorful and interesting-looking! 

No hawking/expectorating... this is the NICE people's zone!!! 

As usual, it is the WOMEN who do the heavy lifting!!! 

A little hard to read, but the name of this hair "salon" is, "Decent Mens Parlour".... so...make sure you are not INdecent--but rather fully clothed--when you come to get your hair cut here!!! And doesn't it EVER look like just the sort of place that "decent" men would want to frequent?!?!?

Knowing, as you do, my passion for chocolate, I have to set aside this addiction and reqlace it with another: for the myriad, fascinating and colorful variety of Indian sweets and treats. My favorite? Chikki... a form of peanut brittle. Also made with cashews, sesame seeds, mixed nuts, crushed peanuts, peanut butter...endless varieties to satisfy my sweet tooth! 

Also hard to make out in this photo, but the motto of this tour bus is, "traveling therapy". Heck, can't argue with THAT one! This digital nomad completely concurs!!! 

Last but CERTAINLY not least: a fast snap of those monstrous motorcyclists zipping along on the SIDEWALK!!!