AUROVILLE: The Village Outside of Pondicherry-- January 6th

Rather than trying to come up with my own description, I am going to "cheat" by offering this one to you all:

"Auroville forms an interesting and complex experiment that takes place on more than 20 sq kms of scattered settlements in the midst of forested, semi-urban, and beach areas. Auroville is not a tourist destination, it is a live-in campus for material and spiritual research spread over a vast area. Access to casual visitors is limited to certain areas but volunteers, students, and people who wish to collaborate or learn from Auroville are most welcome.

Founded in 1968 by Mirra Alfassa, also known as ‘The Mother’ {and close disciple of the revered guru, Aurobindo}, Auroville is an experimental township or a universal town. Designed by famous architect Roger Anger, Auroville is where people of different nationalities, cultures and beliefs live together in harmony."

Hmmm. Well... like any organization, there is the ideal, and then there is the reality. During my two week stay there, I got to know the pros and cons quite intimately. So here you go, MY personal take on it all:

First of all, the quote--on Auroville's website--that it is not a "tourist destination", is quite hilarious. Who are you kidding, Aurovillians?! (Yes, this is indeed what they call themselves!) Busloads of people come there every day...mostly to see the enormous orb they call the "Matrimandir", which, I presume, must have cost millions of dollars to construct. (They explained to me--during my tour/orientation of the huge structure--it took a total of 37 years to complete!!! In other words, more than half the amount of time the village has existed.) People flock to the visitor's center, eat in the cafes, take tours, wander around and get lost.

Yes, the getting lost part is not joke. Presumably, the 20 square kilometers of land is laid out in concentric circles, with various criss-crossing roads going a million different directions throughout... seemingly with no order to it. Certainly, there are ridiculously few road signs! And...GPS? HA! Forget it... slightly better than useless. Ditto, for the 30 rupee map you can procure from the visitor's center. The point is, if you have a destination anywhere in this crazy place, you had better allow two to three times the amount of time it SHOULD take to get there. You should also count on having to stop at least a half dozen times on the way to ask other, equally lost, souls for directions. IF you are lucky, such a person MAY actually have a clue where your destination lies. BUT! Even if they know the way--because they are long-time visitors or residents-- the directions will sound something like this: "OK, so first go straight, then take the first left, then a right through the cow pasture, then another right by the pond, passing over the very bouncy road where all the construction is going on. Next, two more lefts, the 4th exit at the big roundabout, and you will be there!" I am not kidding you. Do you think this is even remotely helpful?!?! So, suffice it to say, there was not a single day I was there when I was not lost...repeatedly, throughout the day. Infuriating, yes. I would console myself with the notion that the wanderings were at least through pretty countryside... which, indeed, was really true.

The land where it is situated is truly gorgeous. I was told--several times, by proud Aurovillians--that the founders planted millions of trees, and multiple varieties, literally turning a barren plain (which the "Mother" bought for cheap, back in 1968) into a lush forest. Amazingly, there is NO trash anywhere I saw within their boundaries... they manage to keep their lands clean and pristine. Despite getting lost, whether on paved or dirt roads, riding around the village provided me with endless pleasure. (Just so long as I really didn't have to be anywhere in particular!)

Which leads me to the next fabulous feature: The beautiful experience of bicycle bliss!! On my first day in the village, I discovered the Kinisi bike rental center. This wonderful Auroville business rents E-bikes, no less, and pretty good ones. I rented one for the entire time I was there. I then proceeded to explore every lane, nook and cranny of those 20 square kilometers... sometimes intentionally, but often accidentally, as a product of getting lost! Still, it was good exercise and a fabulous adventure. I rode to different cafes; various directions into the countryside; to myriad villages beyond Auroville; and finally, to the beach. I even had one VERY harrowing excursion into Pondicherry, foolishly following the lead of a woman I met, Sonia. (We were, in fact, aiming for a beach she wanted to see... WHAT a mistake! It turned into one of the scariest and most horrific days I have ever spent on a bicycle! Riding in an Indian city's traffic is NOT a venture to be undertaken by any sane person!)

One of the down sides of Auroville is that much of it is quite expensive. Some cafes are affordable, while others are very high- end; ditto, for the accomodations. Especially the accomodations. In fact, that was the toughest aspect of coming to this place: Obtaining decent and affordable guest houses to stay in. What is more-- quite insanely--there is NO central data base in which to search among the 92 options on their land. There is not a way to find out price, availability, or ANY other details without going to the Auroville guest website and having to email each guest house individually!!! Madness, indeed. In fact, it literally took me HOURS to contact about FIFTY of these places in order to find ones that were (a) available for my dates; (b) in my price range; and (c) with kitchen access so I could, as per usual, make some of my own meals and store fresh produce. A tall order, indeed!!! Also, because of it being the "high season" in Auroville, it was even more challenging. Though humid--this area of India ALWAYS is--it was at least temperate, and even slightly chilly in the mornings and late evenings. Consequently, ALL the visitors aim to come at this time of year, snatching up the more affordable abodes first, of course. By sheer luck, I found two... but the first was only available for three nights; the second, for five. I grabbed them, figuring I would be booking my train for Bangalore after completing my 9 day stay. (Or so I initially thought!)

In another realm, Aurovillians DID at least have it fairly together: their central check-in operations. This aspect of the village is a functional--if not fairly complex-- bit of bureaucracy every guest hast to plough through. To wit: After arriving at my first ("Good ness"--not a typo on my part--it was spelled as two words!) guest house and checking in, I had to get a letter from the host there, verifying that I would indeed be a guest at the village for the specified period of time. This precious letter had to be carried to a main administration building (which I got lost trying to find, of course!), where I had to register at office number one. Then, with proof of my official registration--- showing passport, getting photographed, filling out extensive info, etc-- I had to take my paperwork over to office number two, the finance office. Here, I had to pay for the guest house and put money on an "Aurocard"--the credit card used specifically for businesses within the village. (Seemingly a brilliant idea, yes? Only until you discover that half of the establishments in or near the village won't accept it!!!) I got charged a "village fee", a percentage for paying with my international credit card, and a twelve percent government tax. After all was said and done, my "cheap" guest house wasn't so cheap anymore!! Also, most strangely, the staff working in these offices were not terribly friendly. Efficient, yes; smiling and personable? They were not. Maybe burnt out by servicing TOO many guests?? (After all, of the 2500 visitors that presumably come every day, a good percentage of those stay for weeks or even months). Who knows, but I was mystified--and put off by--such unfriendliness.

Finally, back to my guest house, armed with my proof of payment and proudly showing off my Aurocard... (I am an official "insider" now!) I settled in.

The "Good ness" guest house was actually lovely, in terms of the room and grounds. However, there is almost ALWAYS a catch, is there not?!?! I had been lied to YET AGAIN (so much for "spiritual" Aurovillians!) because the guest house was MUCH closer to a busy road than my host had claimed. The traffic noise was awful, actually...once again, thank God for my earplugs! After the 3 nights there, I was relieved to move on to guest house number two.

The second one, the "Harsha" guest house-- was much quieter, except for the loudly mewling cat next door. Still, a vast improvement, since it was not near any major road. However! The issue with THIS place was locating it! I did, of course, get lost trying to find it, and almost every time I henceforth ventured "home". The route from the MAIN part of Auroville -- per Google maps-- required me to navigate my way through the adjacent village, and over horrific dirt roads full of rocks and potholes... chased by wild dogs and weaving my way around the ambling cows (who never budge for ANY human, no sirreee!) NOT much fun, to be sure... and terrifying in the dark! (I only made THAT error once...never again!!!) Eventually--cleverly, me thinks--- I figured out how to go a different route into the center of the village that at least was mostly on paved roads, and did not require traveling outside of the boundary line at all.

The final question: how to occupy oneself here, besides riding an e-bike hither and thither, getting lost, and eating at the various cafes?! Well... there are LOTS of activities going on: Yoga classes, workshops of various kinds, shopping in the various businesses, regular art displays and entertainment. That is, of course, if you can actually find your way there! AND are willing to pay the high fees for so many of the events (I was NOT. As it happened, I only attended three--free--events: a tour of the Matrimandir and other buildings at the village core; an evening of classical dance performances; visit to an art exhibition.)

Outside of Auroville proper, there are interesting places to explore: namely, the smattering of villages and their unique and interesting Hindu temples. But best of all, because of the time of year, there were hundreds of "rangolis" adorning the entry ways of virtually every business and home. (more about that in the "Pongal and Rangoli" blog.)

So... I more or less happily occupied my days there, keeping busy with riding, teaching my online English lessons, going to cafes and attending a few events.

I also tried to book a train to follow my planned stay of 9 days...but nothing doing! The ones going to Bangalore were sporatic and mostly fully booked, so I had to postpone my departure until the 21st of January and find yet ANOTHER guest house to stay at. This time--number three-- it was just outside of Auroville, in an adjacent village. THAT bit of craziness-- an entire week's worth--requires its own, separate blog!

But enough of the explanations here...onward to the photos!

A quote from the website reads: "One of the major highlights of Auroville is the Matrimandir, a modern structure with a high significance for integral Yoga practitioners. Matrimandir has a lotus-shaped dome almost 30 meters high and is covered by golden discs that reflect sunlight." (NOT mentioned: the 37 years to complete... Or what this monstrosity must have cost...)

A man-made canal runs circumnavigates the Matrimandir and its immense, perfectly landscaped grounds and gardens. Unfortunately, no photos were allowed on the grounds or in the Mandir-- cell phones had to be checked at the entrance! I was only able to get these few photos when standing at the "viewing point", which required a special pass to get there. From this vantage point ONLY were photos allowed. How annoying, indeed!

Impressive, but rather ugly, me thinks! Reminds me too much of a golden golf ball...wouldn't you agree?!

It is really too bad no photos could be taken of the INSIDE, which was MUCH more impressive. It is shaped like the inside of a nautilus shell, with spiral walkways leading to and from the central chamber. Everything is white: the walls, the walkways, the inner meditation chamber (oops! my bad! It is called the "concentration center", God only knows why!) We-- the large group of pre-registered visitors -- entered without shoes and were required to put on a clean pair of white knee-high socks provided to us. As with the administrative staff, the staff guiding our Mandir tour group were very serious and severe-looking. I never got the impression that they were enjoying themselves or just generally happy. SO very odd and incongruous with the seeming intention of this spiritual eco-village. I felt so very regimented on this tour.... we got to sit in the inner chamber for the prescribed 15 minutes--no more, no less--and "concentrate" on a crystal ball at the center. A beam of sunlight came down from an opening in the ceiling and struck this ball dead center. It was indeed rather fascinating to stare at, but surely didn't require 15 minutes to do so! However, if those in charge were to dispense with the time limit, maybe a real period of meditation might have been possible.

Outside my room at the "Good ness" Guest house. It was actually a lovely place...just too bad it was so close to a noisy main road. (Auroville road, to be exact! So much for the peace and quiet of the country!)

Looking into the gardens from my small balcony

The road after passing through the gate leading up to Good ness house.

The gate of Good ness house...just a few meters beyond, the busy road!

The Good ness house was a short walk away from the visitor's center. This was a pretty pathway that took one there.

Visitor center area; cafes and eating area.

Odd but interesting modern sculpture inside of the admin building, otherwise known as the "town hall" of Auroville.

I did not eat here, but the village had a plethora of good vegetarian and vegan restaurants. I didn't trust the fact that they only served raw food here, though... any raw food I eat in India MUST be disinfected carefully and thoroughly by me, personally!

My favorite cafe: The Sustenance Farm Cafe. For only 150 rupees, delicious, fresh food--all you can eat--served up on a banana leaf. The 2 women in the photo were also guests at the Good ness house and introduced me to this cafe. I ate here 3 times during my stay. Although the food was fabulous, the servers were not-- I rarely saw them smile, and they seemed put out to serve the patrons there, who were mostly foreigners like myself. Was that why they were so surly?!? Ah, yes... more "happy" Aurovillians!

Riding my bike around outside of Auroville, I discovered many lovely temples in the surrounding villages. I never tire of the ornate and colorful adornments on these temples!

This scary figure is of Durga--AKA Kali-- the warrior goddess...is very much revered throughout India. Too bad the Indian women aren't respected and feared like this female deity is!

What would any village tour be without at least one photo of its local, wandering cow(s)?!

Giant horse god?!?! really, no idea, but it was pretty cool!

ditto, this one: the unnamed, prone female goddess with a mad look in her eye! Be wary, mere mortals, and don't piss her off!!

impressive from every angle, she had to be about 20 feet long!

Front of horse-and-man gods of some sort...

Riding through cow pastures on my way to guest house number two: the Harsha house.

Some paved, some dirt...roads led in every direction... let's see... which way to go?! who knows, so I will just go...THAT way!

I often came across adorable country puppies...these two were the cutest ever! Must have been barely a week old...

My new digs at Harsha house. Basic but clean and homey, with nice views out into the forest.

So lovely, looking out into the forest... and...hearing music from the village temples every morning... at least not TOO loud!

Where I typically sat and ate my home-cooked meals..

View from the terrace. Unfortunately, no chair to sit on, but was too exposed anyhow. Was only nice in the early a.m., prior to the sun landing on the roof tops.

Another scary deity, discovered on a village ride...

At the same temple as the above.

Mother and calf, always a heart-warmer...

Lots of country goats and goat herders, male and female alike...

A couple of adorable kids...

After being in Auroville for a few days, I decided to sign up for a tour of the heart of the village. This tour started from the visitor's center, conducted by yet ANOTHER unfriendly Aurovillian! Yes, it was like extracting teeth to get ANY useful information out of this guy named Tom, who was reluctant to tell me his name. He out and out REFUSED to tell me if he was American or Canadian--he could have been either. I found out later that many of these kooky, long-term residents see themselves strictly as "international citizens" and refuse to "identify with"-- or admit to-- their country of origin. I wonder how that flies when they need to use their actual passport for anything, including leaving the country?!? Man oh man, does some of this stuff I am telling you smack of cultish behavior, or what?!?

The best part of the otherwise unremarkable tour was visiting an art display in one of their pavilions-- in this case, the "Tibetan" pavillion. This extraordinary artist created these following images using only leaves and other natural parts of plants. As you can see, the results were magnificent. If I weren't a traveler AND I had an abundance of expendable cash, I would have wanted to purchase one of her creations. I haven't been so "wow'ed" by any artwork's beauty and originality in a very long time.

The other remarkable art display in the Tibetan Pavillion was this very elaborate rangoli created by Tibetan monks who came to visit many years ago, along with the Dalai Lama. Made entirely from sand, this intricate mandala took several days, and numerous monks, to complete. The Aurovillians preserved it beautifully under a glass casing. Normally, in the "real" world, the monks would blow it all away the day after completion, signifying the impermanence of everything in this world.

I took a photo of the photo on the wall of the Dalai Lama surveying the completion of this magnificent work of art. I sure would have liked to have been there in that moment!

The one performing arts event I went to: It was, amazingly, free! A group of local dancers performed classical Indian dance... sometimes to music, or sometimes accompanying a poetry reading. It was quite lovely and the highlight of my time at Auroville (aside from my myriad bicycle ramblings!)

The tall African American man did the poetry readings...he was terrific. A really accomplished reader... most of the poems were evidently written by Aurobindo.