Goa, Part 7: My Various Dwellings

 Because of my aversion to noise, I have tried out three different places in the 3 weeks I have been here in Goa! The first guest house--called Mishmar--is owned and run by a property mogul--and very wealthy man--named Camilo. He is QUITE a character... always seated at his cashdrawer in his beach (restaurant) "shack" and counting his rupees...which come rolling in! He is whacky, personable, yet crude...throwing around the "f" word as often as people throw their trash down by the side of these roads! Still, I like him...he is entertaining! Also,  he gives me modest discounts on my food and watches my bike and other belongings when I go for my long ocean swims. 

I stayed in his guest house for one week when I first got here, and while my room was quite comfy, the kitchenette was sorely lacking necessary supplies. Worse, I was situated right on the road, and was dismayed by the stream of traffic going by, including some very loud motorcycles late in the night. So...I set out in search of quieter surroundings. 

Still they were decent digs...here are the photos:

Taken outside, from the road, looking up at my room...on the second floor. 

The best part was the comfy bed!

View off the balcony...there were occasionally interesting spectacles passing by in the street below. 

After Camilo hung out his Christmas lights...so beautiful! (Like many Indians in Goa, he is Roman Catholic, owing to the long presence of the Portuguese in this part of India.)

After leaving Mishmar, I spent another week in the "country"-- deeper in the "jungle" as it were, though only a mere 10 minute bike ride from the prior location. I only have a photo of the outside--a classic Goan house--because, while luxurious and upscale by Indian standards, I wasn't crazy about it. It was dark and rather gloomy inside, not all that charming, and way too big for just myself. Also--I hadn't escaped noise at all!--unbeknownst to me initially, the house was very close to train tracks. The trains went by constantly, day and night, blowing their whistles as they did so! Then, there were barking/howling dogs everywhere, smoke from trash fires... etc. Not exactly the improvement I had hoped for! Also, the owners lived downstairs with their very neurotic dog, Max, who barked viciously at me every time I left or arrived. After a week of this, I was VERY glad to relocate again...though...yes, a pain, as you might imagine!

Well...you know the cliche, "three's a charm"?! In this case, it DID in fact work! My THIRD--and present--abode is by far the best.  It is called Eden Gardens, and is directly across the street from Mishmar--yes, I have come full circle!-- only this time, my unit is at the back of this complex, far enough from the road to not hear much traffic at all when my windows are closed. I DO occasionally hear loud music from neighboring bars or local parties, and there are, of course, the requisite barking dogs. (Including one annoying, howling beagle, owned by my lovely neighbor Liza, downstairs. But he at least quiets down at bedtime--Liza and her kids see to it!) 

The only real drawback to THIS place is that the neighbors burn their trash DAILY, sometimes twice a day! This is infuriating, as I must rush around the apartment, frantically closing my windows to keep out the smoke and the horrid smell. Still, all in all, it was a good find. It is just the right size, charming in a wonderfully funky-Indian way, with a reasonably well-equipped kitchen, comfy bed, and swimming pool (for the times I am too lazy to walk the 15 minutes to the beach!). Yes, it truly DOES feel like home, and I will be sad--after a 10 day stay-- to leave it when I depart (for Kerala) on Tuesday. I will also miss my great neighbors-- Liza, and some seasonal Brits. But...who knows? perhaps I will return again one day. 

Quite stylish, wouldn't you say? The colorful motif was actually an inspiration of one of the apartment owners-- yes, many units are owned, like condos--Vivian, a Scottish/Brit who comes here to stay every winter. 

The quaint dirt lane that leads to some country houses, passing by the outside of my apartment. This airbnb unit is owned by Joe, a rival guest house mogul in Majorda. I don't think he owns as much property as Camilo, who also owns several units here as well. 

The Christian/Roman Catholic influence can be seen everywhere. This cross adorns my front door!

A convenient entry way, large enough to keep my rented bike safe and secure inside!

This classic, Indian lampshade is one of the many charming features of my Airbnb apartment. 

I was THRILLED to see LABELS on this switch panel! This set up--so common in Indian structures--makes it next to impossible to remember what switch goes to which light. How fabulously considerate to have labeled them for the guests!

As you might imagine, I spend many hours out here on my balcony, with this great view of the pool and the various comings and goings of the guests and residents. I take in all the action while I teach lessons, write my blogs, etc! That is, until the burns begin, then I have to rush back indoors...always so infuriating!!! (something is burning somewhere even as I write this, but it is not QUITE toxic/annoying enough to drive me back inside as yet!!!) 

The funky-but-charming bedroom. The armoir is quite nice; the desk, reasonably functional; the bed, decent; the style of the room simple and understated but pleasant. 

My fully functional kitchen, complete with rooster! (oh yeah, those noisy buggers are everywhere in Goa...thank God for the effectiveness of earplugs! Funny that they don't block out motorcyle engines, but DO block MOST of the loudly crowing cocks!) The only item I miss having is a blender, which I would use for making smoothies with all the delectable fruits that are available here. 

The living room. A lot of smaller Indian flats--like this one--don't have dining areas, so I primarily eat outside on the balcony, or inside at the desk, if too smoky outside. 

A truly unusual, somewhat luxurious item: The mid-size fridge! Most Airbnb flats only come with the mini size--too small for me, since I do most of my own cooking and store lots of fruits and veggies. 

Most favorite feature: the built-in steel drying rack. In my estimation, the best kitchens have these. So MANY dishes/utensils can fit, and in such an orderly fashion! With plenty of good air flow, the items dry rapidly. So ingenious...I ponder why they aren't found EVERYwhere, and not just in some Indian dwellings?!?

Least favorite feature: the typical Indian-style bathroom (except in higher-end, more modern houses). The shower and toilet space are all-in-one--this means that, every time you go to use the toilet after showering, your feet get all wet! The Indians remedy this by placing a rug or bathmat just outside the bathroom. I suppose this design saves on costs, and the toilet lid gets washed along with the person showering...but still! WHAT a nuisance!!! One slightly redeeming feature: the lovely "jumping dolphins" tiles!

On the wall, just inside the main door... clearly, the original owner wanted to spotlight the object of his/her devotional worship! 

My very best selfie in Goa! 

Going for a lovely night swim...

Next up: "My misadventures in Gokarna-- a brief side trip!